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09: Turning Outside of Bowl – Part 8

This video demonstrates how to turn the outside of the bowl after it has been glued to a wooden face plate. Again, refer to the posting on the HOW website for the PDF document of a PowerPoint created to assist the woodworker with this whole bowl making process.

08: Milling Top and Bottom of Bowl – Part 7

This milling process is a necessary step before gluing the bowl body to a wood faceplate. The objective is to get the top and bottom of the bowl body parallel to each other. You will need a drill press, a Wagner Safe-T-Planer (similar to a fly cutter used by machinist), and preferably a foot operated on-off switch so that your hands are free to hold the bowl body. I make light cuts (about 1/16″) in doing this process. Start by milling the bottom of the bowl.

07: Gluing Bowls Halves – Part 6

This video shows how to glue the two halves of the bowl together after they have been sanded on the disc sander. You will need some rubber bands and glue. I use Titebond 2 Glue for the bowls I produce. I have also had good results using Titebond Original formula. I’ve tried and found that Franklin Titebond 3 formula doesn’t have the same “grab or tacky-ness” properties needed for using a “rub joint”.

06: Sanding Bowl Halves – Part 5

The following video demonstrates the method used to match the bowl halves together by sanding them a disc sander. Make sure that the table and the disc are 90 degrees to each other. I normally use a 60-grit or courser abrasive disc. If you cannot seem to get the halves to fit perfectly together; with the disc sander turned off, hold the disc so that it will not turn with one hand and rub the bowl half back and forth. Continue this process until the two halves fit perfectly without any light showing through a the glue joint when you hold it up to the light source.

05: Gluing Bowl Segments – Part 4

In this video the individual stave-type segments will be glued together using a “rub joint”. No clamps are used in this process. Franklin Type 2 adhesive is being used. As the stave segments are rubbed together you will feel the glue start to “grab”. At this point stop the rubbing action and hold the joint together with hand pressure for about 30 seconds or more. The staves being glued together should then be set to the side until the glue dries. Place a construction shim under the one side to help support the weight of the stave to keep if from pulling apart while drying. Shims of various thicknesses will be used as we go from the gluing process. After the quarter bowl has been created then you will glue two quarters together to form one-half of the bowl. It should be noted that woods react differently to rub joint process. Mahogany is not a recommended wood when attempting to assemble a stave-type bowl together using a rub joint. For whatever reason, the glue joint acts and appears to be starved creating a weak link in the process.

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