15: How to Construct the 8 Point Star Medallion

This video will demo the highlights of how to construct an 8 Point Star medallion for the bottom of your segmented bowl.

14: Petal Ring Design and Construction

These videos provide the information needed to design and construct a petal ring. Its recommended that the reader print a hard copy of the PowerPoint presentation, found on this website for notetaking during the viewing of this videos. The main video is approximately 35 minutes in length and features some video taken in Earl Reed’s shop. Earl discusses and demonstrates some of his techniques. I hope the video assists you in your efforts in constructing a petal ring.

Click any of the following titles to see a short demos to see how to make the petals.
Cutting Petal Slabs

Petal Layout

Sanding Petal on Disc Sander

Cutting Petals on Bandsaw
 

13: Turning Inside of bowl – Part 12

This video shows the turning of the inside of a segmented bowl using a bowl gouge and round nose scraping chisel. It won’t take long for the woodworker to realize that the time consuming part of making segmented bowls is in the meticulous cutting, fitting and gluing process and not lathe time. View the video series on How to Design and Construct Segmented Bowls and a PowerPoint presentation on the website www.thehandsonwoodworker.com.

12: Turning Base Tenon – Part 11

This short video demonstrates the method used to turn a tenon to fit up into the bowl body. The size of the mortise and tenon joint is dependent on the size of the bowl and the thickness of wood used to make the staves. View the video series on How to Design and Construct Segmented Bowls and a PowerPoint presentation on the website www.thehandsonwoodworker.com.

11: Creating Bottom Mortise – Part 10

This demo will show how to cut a mortise in the bowl bottom. The tenon will later be turned on the base to match the mortise. This process is critical to having a seamless joint between the bowl and the base. View the video series on How to Design and Construct Segmented Bowls and a PowerPoint presentation on the website www.thehandsonwoodworker.com.

10: Flattening Bowl Bottom – Part 9

This video demonstrates the turning method for getting the bowl bottom flat and parallel with the lathe face plate. You will need a straight edge, sanding board and skew or square scrapping chisel to complete this simple but critical process.

09: Turning Outside of Bowl – Part 8

This video demonstrates how to turn the outside of the bowl after it has been glued to a wooden face plate. Again, refer to the post “Segmented Bowl Making PowerPoint” on this website for the PDF document created to assist the woodworker with this whole bowl making process.

08: Milling Top and Bottom of Bowl – Part 7

This milling process is a necessary step before gluing the bowl body to a wood faceplate. The objective is to get the top and bottom of the bowl body parallel to each other. You will need a drill press, a Wagner Safe-T-Planer (similar to a fly cutter used by machinist), and preferably a foot operated on-off switch so that your hands are free to hold the bowl body. I make light cuts (about 1/16″) in doing this process. Start by milling the bottom of the bowl.

07: Gluing Bowls Halves – Part 6

This video shows how to glue the two halves of the bowl together after they have been sanded on the disc sander. You will need some rubber bands and glue. I use Titebond 2 Glue for the bowls I produce. I have also had good results using Titebond Original formula. I’ve tried and found that Franklin Titebond 3 formula doesn’t have the same “grab or tacky-ness” properties needed for using a “rub joint”.

06: Sanding Bowl Halves – Part 5

The following video demonstrates the method used to match the bowl halves together by sanding them a disc sander. Make sure that the table and the disc are 90 degrees to each other. I normally use a 60-grit or courser abrasive disc. If you cannot seem to get the halves to fit perfectly together; with the disc sander turned off, hold the disc so that it will not turn with one hand and rub the bowl half back and forth. Continue this process until the two halves fit perfectly without any light showing through a the glue joint when you hold it up to the light source.

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